The Road Less Traveled

This morning we have three options. The mountainous poorly marked with no towns along the way or the path that was actually just the road or the path we took. Our path ascended upward for 2.5 km with beautiful views and we continued up the mountain, passing 4 German peregrinos . The views reminded us of the Blue Ridge Mountains. We eventualy came to some wonderful chestnut groves. After crossing the mountain we rewarded ourselves with an ice cream bar. The rest of the day we passed through some small hamlets and passed a few peregrinos we know and stopped to chat. We also passed by several fields of cows who all had bells on their necks which prompted us to coin the phrase "cow music". Eventually we wound up in a very small village named Herrerios where we found an albergue in which to stay . After our afternoon ritual, we spent some time by a cool creek relaxing while we await the dinner hour......hours away! Joan has been communicating quite well with the spanish folks. Impressive!

What a Difference a Day Makes

What a Difference a Day Makes
... And a fist full of euros. Yesterday we decided to stop early and so we got our own room at a hostel with a balcony looking at the castle. We had sheets and towels and little shampoo packets and plenty of hot water and room to change. We felt like the king and queen of the castle and slept like babies.
Today we had a lovely hot day walking through the vineyards and have arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo.

The Templar Castle

Day by Day

It is hard to tell what day it is. We wake early to multiple alarms. We can't figure out why other rise so early only to walk in the dark. We slowly repack our packs and start walking, looking for a cafe to stop and get some cafe con leche and then walk more. If we are hungry we stop and eat at a cafe or just have some snacks we carry. Today we have walked to Ponferrada and have visited the huge 12th century Templar castle.

Typical night's accommodations. Multiple bunk beds in this room.

Adios Rabanal

Today it was sad to leave our albergue as our hosts we're so kind, loving, and encouraging. We saw our camino family at our first cafe con leche break and enjoyed some good conversation. The asked Ed, who they now call Father Ted after he read at church last night, to share some insight. Then it was on to Cruz de Ferro. There is an iron cross at the top of a high pole and one throws a rock onto to the growing mound to represent casting off ones burdens. After that, yep, we walked. Later we found a place to lay our heads, wash our bodies and clothes, and fill our bellies. Now I lay in bed as I listen to the symphony of snores.

A picture with our friends Brian and Allison from Iteland

El Dia fantastique

What an incredible day. You wouldn't have thought so with the way it started. Awakened by our roommate's alarm at 6 a.m. We eventually left Astorga around 8:30. More incredible cathedrals there. So ornate. Our pace was slow to start but quickened as the day progressed. Super weather, cool mornings. Stopped at several small villages . So quaint. Met many new friends today. Paul and Trish from New Zealand. Spent an hour having lunch with them. Their son goes to Canterbury (where Bryce did his study abroad). Ended our day after 20 km in a sleepy town called Rabanal. Found an incredible Albergue run by the dearest people. After having afternoon tea we attended the vespers service at the cathedral across the street where I was asked to read scripture on behalf of the English speaking pilgrims. Afterward, we found a place for dinner. Much to our amazement, everyone that we had come to know on our trip so far came in for dinner as well (unreal). We spent two hours eating and talking. Very good times. We retuned to the cathedral for a special service where they bless the pilgrims. We find ourselves feeling sad for the people of these churches as it seems they more concerned with ritual than spirituality. But for the leadership, we admire there faithfulness. After some conversation with our hosts, finally to bed. But overall, it was truly a special day.

What were we thinking?!?!

Well, after a decent night's sleep in Mazarife we had a Cafe con Leche and headed out on the camino. Our plan was to walk 17 km. In our infinite wisdom we walked 31 km. We are now a little bit ahead of where we thought we would be. Tonight we have checked in to a municipal Albergue. We have showered and washed clothes and now need to feed ourselves. Of course, they don't serve dinner until later in Spain. Waiting. Learning much. We'll share our insights soon.

Madrid to Leon to Mazariffe

Neat city but onward. Fast train to Leon (150 mph). U.S. needs trains like that. Super smooth and comfy. Leon... Another cool city, incredible cathedrals with crazy architecture and intricate stained glass. We are slowly adjusting to "Spain" time. Meals are later and they party all night (and smoking cigarettes is popular). Little sleep before first day walking. Were to take bus to place to start camino but info for that was bad. So we start walking! 14 miles to Mazariffe with good, refreshing stops. Found decent albergue. Shower and clothes washed. Time for food. Had peregrino dinner. Excelente! Ate with Steffi from Germany. Young pilgrim who just started walking today. Spoke very good English. Time for rest but little town is just coming to life. Citizens all walking the streets. Nice. Hasta luego!