Astorga - Barcelona

Said goodbye to Santiago and boarded a train for Astorga.  Refreshed our memory of the city as we walked around and found a meal.  Visited the historic chapel and museum.  Also spent some time resting while Joan feverishly tried to arrange our plans for our visit to Barcelona.  Staying in a hotel is such a change from how we've been living these last weeks.  Not having to rise at the crack of dawn is a pleasure.  

The next morning is a lazy one as we walked a bit a found an actual breakfast (omelette) and a good coffee.  Spent a bit of time procuring some food for our long train ride to Barcelona.  Nine hours is a long time on the train but we did our best to pass the time, occasionally identifying places where we had walked across the country.  Once there it was late but we walked several kilometers to reach our lovely accommodations that Joan booked for us.  The hotel room had the most wonderful and spacious veranda/patio that overlooked a small park.  It was a great place where we enjoyed our morning breakfasts.  

The following day we arose to see Barcelona.  We chose some options to help us see some of the more popular sights but unfortunately we were misled a bit but we made the most of the day and indeed did see a lot.  Some of it was good, some was underwhelming.  We spent 13 hours traversing the city.  The next morning we had a leisurely morning and walk to the train station where we caught a rail to the airport for our nine hour flight home.  

Adios, Spain!

Muxia - Santiago De Compostela

Awoke to small amounts of earlier risers in the albergue.  Didn't really bother us as we were spending our day in Muxia.  A lovely little town.  Wandered a bit looking for our "proper" coffee spot.  Eventually friends joined us and we had a nice chat.  A visit to an out-of-the-way pasteleria was next.  Goodies!  We were also blessed with being there on market day so we acquired some fresh food and then headed for Punta de Barca (the point!).  We love hanging out on the giant boulders watching the waves crash.  It was a bit windy and overcast but we didn't seem to mind much. Our friends, Anna and Chloe, were out there and we said our final goodbyes laced with laughter and tears. We so loved spending time with these two.  Afterwards, we sat and enjoyed our delicacies.  Eventually, we walked to the summit and had some reflection time.  We find it hard to wrap our minds around what we have experienced.  It's very hard to put into words and frankly, not many can truly understand. Went back to town and spent a little more time at our spot, "A Marina", before catching the bus back to Santiago.  Upon arrival, we checked into our accomodations, San Martin Hospedaria, an old monastery next to the cathedral.  Ran around doing some last minute things before having dinner with Catarina, our friend from Sweden we met two years earlier. In the morning we catch the train east for Astorga, a town we passed through on our first Camino but saw little of due to our arrival time and on a Sunday.  

Dumbria to Muxia 22 kilometers - Atlantic Ocean!

Well, leave it to us to change it up a bit.  Today, we were the first ones up at the albergue.  Since we were the only ones in that room, lights on!  Had a petit desayuno while the other pilgrims slowly arose. On the road before 8:00.  This morning's walk was very peaceful, serene and so enjoyable (in saying that, I overlook the hundreds of barking dogs we passed throughout the day).  But in the forefront of our thoughts we realized this was the last day of walking on an almost 1000 kilometer journey.  So hard to fathom.  Like many other days, we had special moments like the sheep herder who stopped to talk to us and wish us a Buen Camino.  But as we neared Muxia we thought we would be retracing our steps along the shoreline but the path took us to the opposite side of the peninsula where we arrived at a small beach.  We ditched our mochillas and shoes and headed straight for the ocean.  Can't begin to describe the emotions.  After playing on the beach awhile we walked to the village and found our albergue and ditched our packs.  We decided to go ahead and eat before doing our afternoon rituals.  The place where we had eaten the amazing paella meal two years ago was right around the corner so we decided to return.  Knew we would get a great meal and we were not disappointed.  Wasn't planning on getting the same meal and we didn't. We got the "clean" seafood rice dish (whatever that means) without the lobster.  So so so good!!  And enough for four people.  Saw the proprietor of the restaurant and showed him the picture we took there two years ago. He got his mother out of the kitchen to take a look.  A fun time.  Washed, rested and then roamed the town a bit.  Saw some peregrino friends from weeks ago.  Later in the evening we went to the point. It was a bit cloudy and windy but it cleared enough for us to go climb out on the giant rocks and watch the sunset.  Un lugar especial. 

Santa Marina to Dumbria 24 kilometers

Finally, the rain goes away and the sun makes an appearance.  What a welcome sight.  We arose and had a "proper" coffee and hit the trail.  Because of being between stages, there are few pilgrims where we were staying.  We passed most of the early risers quickly and soon had a very quiet path.  It was a very beautiful morning as we retraced our steps from two years ago.  This was a section that was very hard for us then due to our circumstances that day.  We ended up taking our morning break at Oliveiroa, a place we stayed last time.  It had changed dramatically as they had built a new cafe and store.  We took a long break for coffee and some snacks.  Sundays in Spain are "survival days" for us because of the limited resources so we ate some junk while we could.  We continued and finally reached the fork in the road where you choose to go to either Finisterre or to Muxia.  This time we chose to head directly for Muxia.  We had scoped out a town that was only four more kilometers up the road, leaving us 20k for the descent into the destination village tomorrow.  When we got to town the first place we came to was the municipal albergue.  It was a purpose built place constructed in 2010 but it's in an odd location so it looks like it gets little use.  When we enter the front, the sign says, "take a free bed, someone will come by tonight to collect 6 euro".  We find only one peregrino. It's really quite sketchy and creepy.  We decided to see if we could find the local pension we had read about. Unfortunately, we couldn't find it and instead found the only place open that had any food.  We bought a few items and headed back to the muni.  We bathed (little hot water) and washed some clothes (best resource here).  Another couple from Italy that was at our albergue last night just showed up so it doesn't feel quite as sketchy because the lady is real loud (lol). Now, if they would just bathe and/or wash their clothes.  Anyway, looking forward to morning as we take our final long walk day into the quaint town of Muxia.  

Negreira to Santa Marina 20 kilometers

So we awoke and checked the weather radar and it wasn't looking good on the rain front.  But we packed and headed to a cafe that we went to two years ago.  Same guy running the place. Our new young friend Klaus came walking by on his way back to Santiago so we were able to bid him Bon Voyage. We thought we might wait out the rain but after coffee we hit the Camino.  The recent deluge has many paths muddy but the flip side is some trails have had a lot of work done to make them nice. As usual, we caught up with Anna and Chloe and walked with them briefly.  Our memories of this section of the trail are a bit fuzzy but we finally made it to familiar territory.  We had some drizzle off and on but no serious rain. Made it to the albergue that Joan had scoped out.  No washing of clothes as our wash from the previous day was still wet (we're a bit soggy overall). Decided to have a pilgrims dinner.  The girls showed up and joined us for our meal.  Then, we had a bit of Camino magic.  A woman, Catarina, we had walked with a bit two years ago comes through the door.  This absolutely floored us (and even our new friends).  That's twice so far that we have seen someone from two years ago.  So crazy.  The short days we have planned are allowing us some much needed rest.  This place has wifi so we are using it to plan the remainder of our stay in Spain.  

A Little Break and Then.....

For over a month we have had only one day of rain walking and that was a half day of drizzle.  But we have run into a wall of rain.  It was raining so much yesterday we postponed our plans of walking to Muxia.  In fact, we have been trying to figure out what to do because of the lousy weather.  So we spent the day in Santiago, basically resting.  Had to find a place to stay as our flat was full for the next night.  Explored the back streets and found some quiet eateries with excellent food (thank goodness).  Hung with our Camino friends for a bit and had coffee.  Kept checking the weather forecast to hopefully help us decide what to do.  We finally decided if it wasn't pouring in the morning and the extended forecast looked decent, we would start our trek to Muxia.  Well, I now find us in Negreira about 20 kilometers west of Santiago.  We are on the way.  What was really cool was as we left Santiago, we were greeted by Serena from Italy who we walked with weeks ago.  So good to see her. A great send off.  And while on the way today we ran into our friends Chloe, Anna and Klaus.  Always a  bright spot in our day to see them.  Hopefully, things will continue to dry up a bit as we head to the coast.  

Day 33 - Salceda to Santiago De Compostela! 26 kilometers

Our morning started with a bit of Camino Magic when the proprietor of the albergue/hostal gave us free coffee and croissants fresh out of the oven.  Then several kilometers into our walk, we saw a full & double rainbow.  How cool!  But our euphoria came crashing down when midway through our journey, Joan got stung by a bee on her ankle.  She was in a lot of pain but pressed on.  We eventually stopped where she tended to the sting and took some pain reliever.  We continued with the intermittent bout of light showers.  We never donned our rain jackets until the top of Monte Do Gozo with about 6 kilometers to go when it really stared to pour.  Many peregrinos sought shelter but we kept going.  The showers had let up when we made our approach to the cathedral in Santiago but when we arrived in the plaza square it started raining hard.  Everyone around us ran for shelter and we ended up as the only ones in the square.  It was a special moment and very hard to describe.  We conquered and endured quite a bit on this journey, just as we have in our lives.  We did not go to receive the compostela that so many desire. We did recieve a Fransican compostela that is only given out every 100 years.  Spent the evening hanging out with some our friends that we've had the pleasure of sharing our journeys together over the last few weeks.  Now we are trying to plan the remainder of our trip.  Very tired and a bit weary. But very blessed!

Day 32 - Melide to Salceda 26 kilometers

Awoke to the remnants of overnight downpours.  Thought we might spend our first day in lots of rain.  But we slowly got ready and the showers tapered and we hit the road.  Never put on our rain jackets all day!  But wow! What a change of venue.  This route is so crowded with people.  "No tranquilo" is the phrase of the day.  A bit disconcerting but we are doing our best to ignore it.  Focusing on our own walk.  We beasted 26 kilometers before 1:00 p.m.  Too funny. Looks like we have a decent place to lay our heads before we walk to Santiago tomorrow!

Day 31 - San Romano De Retorta to Melide 27 kilometers

Pretty quiet at the albergue until we finished our early breakfast and the vagabonds came in to loot the place of their food.  The hospitalero is a very generous person but the party crowd from the other albergue that had no food came over and cleaned out his kitchen. Not a great start to a day.  We left at 7:30 and it was still mostly dark. Actually had to use the flashlight to find the markers for a bit.  Nice cool morning but the coffee stop was 13 kilometers in.  Took a long break and then marched on to Melide which is back on the Camino Frances.  Goodbye, Camino Primitivo!  The feel is already different being back on the French route.  Many short distance pilgrims and "tourigrinos".  We still have some friends around though.  Two days to Santiago.  Hard to believe.  But the journey wont end there.  To be continued.....

Day 30 - Lugo to San Romano de Retorta 24 kilometers

Tough night's sleep in the city albergue.  Had coffee and a bit of breakfast with Anna & Chloe (always fun).  The walk took us out of the city walls and along roads for most of the day.  We took a side trip to see an old church with some very old artwork but the custodians said it was closed and would not allow us in.  After a mini picnic, we found a trail that got us back on the Camino without having to backtrack.  It was really a nicer walk.  Rains/storms threatened but we made it to a crazy little albergue before we got caught.  Had a strange but adequate meal provided by the hospitalero late this afternoon.  We are now kicking back, looking ahead to where the remainder of our time in Spain will be spent.  Hard to believe we are only three days from Santiago.  There's a tv in the common area here.  Hoping to see the FIBA championship game between the U.S. and Serbia later! 

Day 29 - O Cadalvo Baleiro to Lugo 30 kilometers

A good coffee before leaving town set us on our course for a relatively easy journey.  It was long, but not as strenuous as previously experienced.  We found the walled city of Lugo but did not find it an easy place to navigate. We ended up at the municipal albergue.  After meandering around the historic city and finding some groceries, we found no place to eat a meal.  We walked into the main cathedral where a little lady took us under her wing and gave us an amazing grand tour.  Afterwards it was late enough where "restaurants" started serving food.  We lucked into a very nice meal which should fuel us nicely.  

Day 28 - Fonsagrada to O Cadalvo Baleira 25.2 kilometers

We enjoyed a decent night's sleep for a change. Fairly early start. It was a very challenging day. The climbs are very steep and so are the descents.  Not many places to stop but when there were, we stopped.  Basically, it was like a pub crawl.  Had coffee instead of beer.  Had ice cream bars when the day got hot.  Because of the holiday (unexpected) yesterday, we had few provisions for food so it was another survival day.  And, as usual, we survived.  Arrived in town and was greeted by Consuelo, a woman who spoke more French than Spanish.  Had a lovely conversation with her as we tried our best to translate (think we did a pretty good job!).  The 82 year old was so gracious.  For me (Ed), our interaction with her turned a tough, frustrating day into a blessing.  Got our resting spot for the night and then found a grocery store where we replenished our stores and our stomachs.  Long day planned for tomorrow.  30 kilometers into the walled city of Lugo and it will be day 28 on the Camino for us.  

Day 27 - Grandas De Salime to Fonsagrada 26.3 kilometers

Slept (if that's what you call it) next to one of the all-time loudest snorers.  Typical early morning in the albergue but didn't fight it.  Just got up and got going.  The walk today was a big mix of climbs and descents.  Also a number of temperature changes.  When we finally got the destination town we located an albergue/pension we had seen advertised.  Upon walking in, we saw the loud snoring Italian from the previous night.  Made our decision to get a private room an easy one.  The variable for today we didn't see coming was another one of these random "festiva" days where most everything is closed.  No mercado today. Arg! Luckily we found a place to get a meal and are now reclining comfortably for the evening.

Update on my shoes (Ed):

Several days ago I considered buying new shoes to complete the Camino.  Maybe I should have pulled the trigger on that purchase as my soles have split open. 

Day 26 - Berducedo to Grandas De Salime 21.4

Our old friend, Frank, from Ireland once said, "Sleeping in an albergue is a bit like trying to sleep in a roundabout".  This morning was definitely a good example of that.  We deal with it the best we can and even had a few laughs with our Camino friends, Anna (from Barcelnona) and Chloe (from Switzerland). A crazy walk today took us on a shaded road walk for six kilometers and then straight up for two K and then downhill into a dense fog.  We emerged eventually and had lunch at a hotel/restaurant that had a patio overlooking a picturesque waterway.  Another road walk in the heat brought us to this village. Went to a local museum of sorts that cost 1.5 euro.  Best money spent.  Place was amazing. Old antique everything set up like an old village.  After that another mercado supper including tons of fruit.  Resting comfortably at the muni albergue.  The Primitivo is much tougher on us so hopefully we are ready for the next leg.     

Day 25 - Campiella to Berducedo 29.4 kilometers

Woke to thick fog.  Actually planned to leave by 7:30 but we waited till 8:00 to get a bit of daylight.  Today's route had an option to walk a low route or go high into the mountains.  You know what we picked.  It was quite strenuous but oh so beautiful on top of the ridges.  It was a very long day and it taxed us greatly.  When we got to where we thought we might stay, we could not get accomodations at the first albergue we tried.  Only one other in town.  Got beds.  Place has a small kitchen so we found a small tienda and bought provisions to fix our own dinner.  A welcome change.  Very tired.  Time to relax.  

Day 24 - Bodenaya to Campiella 26.3 kilometers

Pretty uneventful day for the Camino. The walk was very nice under a pretty much shaded canopy. Today is Festivus de La Asturias so it's a holiday and we expected it to be a sketch day for finding provisions.  Not to worry though because when we passed through Tinea we found the greatest little place run by an older gentleman and his sons.  He wanted to know about us and our journey.  They hooked us up with some groceries and we continued. Got to an albergue we had heard about that was supposed to be spotless and it was. Only four pilgrims spent the night. 

Day 23 - San Juan de Villapanada to Bodenaya

Interesting morning.  The pilgrims woke at 6:00 a.m. but were very respectful and quiet.  What a change.  We got up later and had a small breakfast with instant coffee and hit the road close to 8:00.  The weather is very humid and today's walk took us uphill most of the way.  Fortunately, much of our walk was on shaded paths.  We had some good instructions which told us not to follow the signs for a short bit where we cruised a town and found an open Panaderia/Confiteria where we got some great baked treats.  A couple of Cafe con leches and we were fueled to go.  We hit the 20 kilometer mark which was a nice sized town and we had a decision to stay or travel another 8 kilometers where there was a small albergue.  We gambled and started walking.  It was a strenuous, steep climb.  And as we walked a storm brewed.  We got to a landmark that was within one kilometer of the albergue but the skies darkened.  As we neared, the rains started to come so Joan started running! I followed suit and we got to the albergue before the heavy rains fell. We were only the second group to get there.  Slowly the albergue has filled up with some of the people who stayed at the place we did the night before and who had left before us.  It's a very eclectic albergue run by a well known hospitalero. Resting now and looking forward to a Peregrino communidad meal later.  

Day 22 - Camino Primitivo! Oviedo to Villapanada 30.5 kilometers

Another new beginning.  We got a deal on Booking for a room in Oviedo which allowed us to rest and sleep in (7:15).  We got coffee and some sandwiches (whole grain rolls!) to go (para llevar!) at a sweet little cafe. Our walk was a bit different in that the humidity is much higher so it was quite muggy.  The terrain is also much different than what we had been experiencing. Lots of up and down but mostly up.  30 kilometers later we found a tiny albergue next to a monastery (we were warned to pack food because there was nothing around there).  We discovered that most of the peregrinos were seasoned veterans of the Camino.  There were some beginners but already the vibe was a bit different than what we had on the Camino Frances.  

Day 21 - Puente Villarente to Leon 13 kilometers - Camino Frances Completed! Onto Camino Primitivo

It's hard to believe but we have officially completed the Camino De Santiago (Frances Route) from end to end.  We made it back this morning to where we started our Camino two years ago.  Over 800 kilometers (around 500 miles) done on foot.  Spent a little time revisiting some memories in Leon.  I (Ed) actually considered buying new shoes in the city as the ones I am wearing are fading fast.  But I couldn't pull the trigger.  We found the bus station in the afternoon and have wound up in Oviedo, the start of the Camino Primitivo.  It's a different path to Santiago and about the same distance as going there from Leon.  What was completely weird was when we took the bus, we had to cross a mountain range. Going up it was sunny, the land is parched and very brown.  Near the top we went in a tunnel.  When we came out on the other side, it was foggy and the land was a lush green.  Think we are in for a different trip now.  

Day 20 - Calzada De Los Hermanillas to Puente Villarente 30.2 kilometers

Well, as expected, the early morning peregrinos were raising Cain in our albergue before 6 a.m.  We did our best to chill but finally decided to get going even though it was still dark.  A local place was serving coffee and desayuno at 7:00 so we went there.  Really nice ladies who make great coffee! We then hit the road for a 24.5 kilometer sprint.  No towns or stopping places in between.   We got to the town by noon (and passed every single peregrino that left at the crack of dawn). We found a great little cafe with a courtyard where we had a super lunch, coffee and some pastries we found as we walked through town.  Rested and fueled, we chose to move on to the next town just 6 kilometers away.  This will give us a short walk to Leon tomorrow; the place where we started our first Camino two years ago.  Hard to believe we will have completed the Camino Frances!

Day 19 - Sahagun to Calzada De Los Hermanillas 14 kilometers

It may have only been a short walk but provided some good sights and a crazy adventure.  Today's sights included a covey of quail, a frolicking deer, a rainbow in a clear sky and a 5 euro laying on an empty trail.  The adventure came in taking a wrong turn out of town. Today we desired to take the alternative path (away from the main highways) on an old Roman road. So when we were looking for our turn we ended up taking a detour through a farm for a kilometer or so.  Thankfully, we didn't run into an angry farmer. We finally found our route and have stopped in a very small village and are staying at a municipal albergue.  Tomorrow we will resume our normal pace because we don't have a choice.  There are no accomodations or services for 24 kilometers.  We have some food and will pack plenty of water.  The early rising pilgrims will wake us before dawn so it will be an early day.    

Day 18 - Terradillos De Los Templaros to Sahagun 13 kilometers

We have talked about doing a short day for a long time but we haven't been able to do it.  We always say, "it's early, let's keep going".   Well, we finally did it.  Only 13 kilometers today.  We are now in Sahagun staying at Monasterio de Santa Cruz.  It's very quiet here.  The temperature today is quite warm so we are thankful to be off the way.  We have cruised the town and seen some old ruins.  The lady volunteers from the Madrid catholic association will prepare a pilgrims meal for us tonight.

Funny moment: walking through a Supermercado in town and the music playing in the store was "Wagon Wheel" by Old Crow Medicine Show.  We started singing, locals probably thought we were nuts! 

Day 17 - Carrion De Los Condes to Terradillos De Los Templaros 26.8 kilometers

Sleeping in until 7:15 a.m. was so delightful. We enjoyed a slow preparation to start our day. Our walk today would take us along a significant stretch of land with very little provisions so we decided to stay in town until the Supermercado opened. We procured quite a few things for our breakfast and for the rest of our day (fruit, bread, nuts, etc.) all for just under 8 euro! So we then walked. Didn't really find a place we wanted to stop so we continued until we found an extremely sleepy town with a decent albergue. Reports say heat coming. Hope to rest well.