Thursday, October 9, 2014

Pictures and Video

We haven't been able to form the words yet to sum up our time on the Camino but we do have some pictures and a fun video to share:

Click here for pictures of our Camino

Click here for Ed & Joan's Selfie Video

Monday, September 29, 2014

Astorga - Barcelona

Said goodbye to Santiago and boarded a train for Astorga.  Refreshed our memory of the city as we walked around and found a meal.  Visited the historic chapel and museum.  Also spent some time resting while Joan feverishly tried to arrange our plans for our visit to Barcelona.  Staying in a hotel is such a change from how we've been living these last weeks.  Not having to rise at the crack of dawn is a pleasure.  

The next morning is a lazy one as we walked a bit a found an actual breakfast (omelette) and a good coffee.  Spent a bit of time procuring some food for our long train ride to Barcelona.  Nine hours is a long time on the train but we did our best to pass the time, occasionally identifying places where we had walked across the country.  Once there it was late but we walked several kilometers to reach our lovely accommodations that Joan booked for us.  The hotel room had the most wonderful and spacious veranda/patio that overlooked a small park.  It was a great place where we enjoyed our morning breakfasts.  

The following day we arose to see Barcelona.  We chose some options to help us see some of the more popular sights but unfortunately we were misled a bit but we made the most of the day and indeed did see a lot.  Some of it was good, some was underwhelming.  We spent 13 hours traversing the city.  The next morning we had a leisurely morning and walk to the train station where we caught a rail to the airport for our nine hour flight home.  

Adios, Spain!

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Muxia - Santiago De Compostela

Awoke to small amounts of earlier risers in the albergue.  Didn't really bother us as we were spending our day in Muxia.  A lovely little town.  Wandered a bit looking for our "proper" coffee spot.  Eventually friends joined us and we had a nice chat.  A visit to an out-of-the-way pasteleria was next.  Goodies!  We were also blessed with being there on market day so we acquired some fresh food and then headed for Punta de Barca (the point!).  We love hanging out on the giant boulders watching the waves crash.  It was a bit windy and overcast but we didn't seem to mind much. Our friends, Anna and Chloe, were out there and we said our final goodbyes laced with laughter and tears. We so loved spending time with these two.  Afterwards, we sat and enjoyed our delicacies.  Eventually, we walked to the summit and had some reflection time.  We find it hard to wrap our minds around what we have experienced.  It's very hard to put into words and frankly, not many can truly understand. Went back to town and spent a little more time at our spot, "A Marina", before catching the bus back to Santiago.  Upon arrival, we checked into our accomodations, San Martin Hospedaria, an old monastery next to the cathedral.  Ran around doing some last minute things before having dinner with Catarina, our friend from Sweden we met two years earlier. In the morning we catch the train east for Astorga, a town we passed through on our first Camino but saw little of due to our arrival time and on a Sunday.  

Monday, September 22, 2014

Dumbria to Muxia 22 kilometers - Atlantic Ocean!


Well, leave it to us to change it up a bit.  Today, we were the first ones up at the albergue.  Since we were the only ones in that room, lights on!  Had a petit desayuno while the other pilgrims slowly arose. On the road before 8:00.  This morning's walk was very peaceful, serene and so enjoyable (in saying that, I overlook the hundreds of barking dogs we passed throughout the day).  But in the forefront of our thoughts we realized this was the last day of walking on an almost 1000 kilometer journey.  So hard to fathom.  Like many other days, we had special moments like the sheep herder who stopped to talk to us and wish us a Buen Camino.  But as we neared Muxia we thought we would be retracing our steps along the shoreline but the path took us to the opposite side of the peninsula where we arrived at a small beach.  We ditched our mochillas and shoes and headed straight for the ocean.  Can't begin to describe the emotions.  After playing on the beach awhile we walked to the village and found our albergue and ditched our packs.  We decided to go ahead and eat before doing our afternoon rituals.  The place where we had eaten the amazing paella meal two years ago was right around the corner so we decided to return.  Knew we would get a great meal and we were not disappointed.  Wasn't planning on getting the same meal and we didn't. We got the "clean" seafood rice dish (whatever that means) without the lobster.  So so so good!!  And enough for four people.  Saw the proprietor of the restaurant and showed him the picture we took there two years ago. He got his mother out of the kitchen to take a look.  A fun time.  Washed, rested and then roamed the town a bit.  Saw some peregrino friends from weeks ago.  Later in the evening we went to the point. It was a bit cloudy and windy but it cleared enough for us to go climb out on the giant rocks and watch the sunset.  Un lugar especial. 

Santa Marina to Dumbria 24 kilometers

Finally, the rain goes away and the sun makes an appearance.  What a welcome sight.  We arose and had a "proper" coffee and hit the trail.  Because of being between stages, there are few pilgrims where we were staying.  We passed most of the early risers quickly and soon had a very quiet path.  It was a very beautiful morning as we retraced our steps from two years ago.  This was a section that was very hard for us then due to our circumstances that day.  We ended up taking our morning break at Oliveiroa, a place we stayed last time.  It had changed dramatically as they had built a new cafe and store.  We took a long break for coffee and some snacks.  Sundays in Spain are "survival days" for us because of the limited resources so we ate some junk while we could.  We continued and finally reached the fork in the road where you choose to go to either Finisterre or to Muxia.  This time we chose to head directly for Muxia.  We had scoped out a town that was only four more kilometers up the road, leaving us 20k for the descent into the destination village tomorrow.  When we got to town the first place we came to was the municipal albergue.  It was a purpose built place constructed in 2010 but it's in an odd location so it looks like it gets little use.  When we enter the front, the sign says, "take a free bed, someone will come by tonight to collect 6 euro".  We find only one peregrino. It's really quite sketchy and creepy.  We decided to see if we could find the local pension we had read about. Unfortunately, we couldn't find it and instead found the only place open that had any food.  We bought a few items and headed back to the muni.  We bathed (little hot water) and washed some clothes (best resource here).  Another couple from Italy that was at our albergue last night just showed up so it doesn't feel quite as sketchy because the lady is real loud (lol). Now, if they would just bathe and/or wash their clothes.  Anyway, looking forward to morning as we take our final long walk day into the quaint town of Muxia.  

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Negreira to Santa Marina 20 kilometers

So we awoke and checked the weather radar and it wasn't looking good on the rain front.  But we packed and headed to a cafe that we went to two years ago.  Same guy running the place. Our new young friend Klaus came walking by on his way back to Santiago so we were able to bid him Bon Voyage. We thought we might wait out the rain but after coffee we hit the Camino.  The recent deluge has many paths muddy but the flip side is some trails have had a lot of work done to make them nice. As usual, we caught up with Anna and Chloe and walked with them briefly.  Our memories of this section of the trail are a bit fuzzy but we finally made it to familiar territory.  We had some drizzle off and on but no serious rain. Made it to the albergue that Joan had scoped out.  No washing of clothes as our wash from the previous day was still wet (we're a bit soggy overall). Decided to have a pilgrims dinner.  The girls showed up and joined us for our meal.  Then, we had a bit of Camino magic.  A woman, Catarina, we had walked with a bit two years ago comes through the door.  This absolutely floored us (and even our new friends).  That's twice so far that we have seen someone from two years ago.  So crazy.  The short days we have planned are allowing us some much needed rest.  This place has wifi so we are using it to plan the remainder of our stay in Spain.  

Friday, September 19, 2014

A Little Break and Then.....

For over a month we have had only one day of rain walking and that was a half day of drizzle.  But we have run into a wall of rain.  It was raining so much yesterday we postponed our plans of walking to Muxia.  In fact, we have been trying to figure out what to do because of the lousy weather.  So we spent the day in Santiago, basically resting.  Had to find a place to stay as our flat was full for the next night.  Explored the back streets and found some quiet eateries with excellent food (thank goodness).  Hung with our Camino friends for a bit and had coffee.  Kept checking the weather forecast to hopefully help us decide what to do.  We finally decided if it wasn't pouring in the morning and the extended forecast looked decent, we would start our trek to Muxia.  Well, I now find us in Negreira about 20 kilometers west of Santiago.  We are on the way.  What was really cool was as we left Santiago, we were greeted by Serena from Italy who we walked with weeks ago.  So good to see her. A great send off.  And while on the way today we ran into our friends Chloe, Anna and Klaus.  Always a  bright spot in our day to see them.  Hopefully, things will continue to dry up a bit as we head to the coast.