Day 16 - Boadilla to Carrion De Los Condes 26.5 kilometers

The usual routine at a busy albergue has peregrino's alarms going off at 5:00 a.m. Ridiculous! It doesn't get light until after 7:00.  So we laid in bed till we got bored and finally got out of bed and hit the road at 7:15.  The morning was cool so we did enjoy our walk. A mid morning break found us eating a somewhat different breakfast than Spain's famous coffee and crusty bread. We ate eggs and a variety of breakfast meats.  Well nourished, we proceeded from there and enjoyed a nice walk on a somewhat shade country path while many pilgrims took a "shortcut" and walked along the sunny, hot highway. Upon our arrival, we were able to find a quiet room for tonight. 

Day 15 - Hontanas to Boadilla 28.8 kilometers

For whatever reason, we rose early, had a small breakfast and hit the road by 7:15.  The reputation of the Meseta walk is a desolate, dry land.  But so far we have enjoyed some beautiful views on our way.  Today we covered 20+ kilometers by 11:15. Stopped in a small town with a great super mercado which provided us a fresh lunch and we are now at a busy albergue. We have been very spoiled by some nice albergue choices so we will rest the best we can here. We closed our evening here by trying to communicate with Ruth, a woman, 32, who was walking the camino after extensive back surgery due to an accident she had while serving on a naval ship.  We had quite a conversation, with none of us well versed in the other's language. We were occasionally helped by Veronique, a French woman who had traveled some with Ruth.  

Day 14 - Tradejos to Hontanas 20.8 kilometers

For several days we have been talking about taking it easy and somehow we end up going far beyond what we thought we may do.  Today we may finally have succeeded.  The morning was much cooler and there was a gentle breeze to keep us feeling good. We stopped at every little town for coffee and at San Bol we stopped for a picnic lunch and to cool our feet in what are said to be healing waters. Now we are resting and are catching up as we have wifi (internet) after several days without and look forward to our community meal tonight. It is supposed to be paella. Our slower pace still took us a good distance and we feel very good this afternoon.  The last two albergue choices have also provided us with amazing shower facilities.  Feeling cleaner and more refreshed than we have in days. 

Day 13 - Orbanejo to Tradajo 23 kilometers

We made it to Burgos, a large city. We went to the gothic Cathedral, one of the largest in Spain and a world heritage site. Next, was time to resupply...cash, food, and new socks for Joan. As we approach the Meseta the weather is dry and hot and so our afternoon through the suburbs was not very enjoyable and I (Joan) ran out of water, but our reward was an outstanding albergue and dinner at La Fabrica in Tradajos.  The beautiful stone building was some sort of historic site with glass floors in the dining area so as to view the ancient building's foundation. 

Day 12 - Villafranca Montes de Oca to Orbanejo 27 kilometers

We prepared ourselves for some major climbing today due to our guidebook's elevation maps.  But those maps were inaccurate and it was not a big deal. We traveled 12 kilometers in around two hours. A small time later we found ourselves in a village where we thought we might stay but it was very early so as usual, we pressed on.  We found ourselves mid afternoon in the last town before a long trek to the city of Burgos.  We knew we couldn't go on but there appeared to be no place to stay.  We went in a local cafe/bar and asked the owner if he knew of any place to stay. Although we could not understand him, he pointed us back up the road 100 meters to a Casa Rural.  We found the owner there and she had just finished cleaning after a group had occupied her house for a month.  How lucky for us!  The Camino Provides!

Day 11 - Granon to Villafranca Montes de Oca 27.6 Kilometers

Not sure one calls 27 kilometers short, but that was what we were thinking when we set out today. With stout winds in our face all day, we arrived with Roger from Australia in a small village at the foot of a small mountain range that we will climb tomorrow. After our daily chores we partook in a large pilgrims meal before resting. We have left behind the miles and miles of vineyards and now the fields have been harvested of the hay, and are dry.

Day 10 - Azofra to Granon 22.4 Kilometers

After our small breakfast, we headed out (8:00 a.m.) and found ourselves in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We stopped at the well-known Cathedral and took a look around. We also climbed up in the bell tower which was quite cool.  Our next hot, seven kilometer sprint landed us in Granon where we found a neat hippy albergue.  The place features a very small, quiet and shady courtyard where we are resting and catching up on our blog.  We will share a communal dinner tonight.

Day 9 - Nazarette to Azofra 23.2 Kilometers

The albergue where we stayed allowed us to leave late. What a treat! We left at 8:45 a.m. After a short walk we came upon the hamlet of Ventosa where they were having a medieval festival.  We saw a variety of things like wild animals, birds of prey, crafts, foods and other goods. After sampling some things we moved on and passed through the town of Najera. Interestingly enough we stopped and ate a bargain of a simple Chinese lunch. Great fuel.  After snagging some groceries for the rest of the day we walked on and wound up in Azofra, a sleepy little town. The purpose-built albergue there served us well. We had great washing facilities and a small cubby to ourselves.  The courtyard had a wonderful small cool-pool where we could soak our tired, hot feet. 

Day 8 - Viana to Nazarette 23 kilometers

Another early day with poor rest took us through the city of Logrono.  We searched out and found the local market with fresh fruit and meat.  We procured some provisions and walked to the village of Nazarette where we secured an albergue that had no other pilgrims.  A nice place all to ourselves.  We fixed our own dinner and had an unusually quiet night.  

Day 7 - Villamayor de Monjardin to Viana 30.1 kilometers

An unusually hearty breakfast gave us the fuel to cover some ground today.  As usual, we stopped in a couple of hamlets to fill our coffee tanks.  The overcast skies finally gave way to rain.  Fortunately, it was not a hard rain and we were able to don our rain gear and keep going.  We landed in the town of Viana and logged in to a parroquial albergue with meager accomodations (we would be sleeping on mats on the floor).  Our saving grace in this town were two places to hang out.  The first was a restaurant/bar tucked away on a side street where we relaxed, ate, and used their WiFi.  We then relaxed at a place called the Pilgrima Oasis that is run by some folks who were originally from the U.S.  We drank tea and conversed with them for quite a while.  The time spent just chilling in this town probably gave us more rest than sleeping on the Parrish floor.  

Day 6 - Ciraqui to Villamayor de Monjardin 23.7 Kilometers

A nice quiet walk led us to a very neat town named Estella.  Fortunately, we arrived on market day and we were treated to a very busy market with wonderful produce and baked goods. We took advantage! The highlight for us was the man who gave us two apples "gratis". That meant a lot to us.  Such wonderful hospitality.  We spent some time taking part in this artisan town and then continued on to an albergue run by the Dutch confraternity.  We took part in another great community meal and spent time talking to people from Germany and Israel.

A few days ago we ditched Joan's wrist watch and now listen for the church bells if we want to know the time and eat when we are hungry. 

Day 5 - Cizur Menor to Cirauqi 29.6 Kilometers

Today we made our way over Alto del Perdon and then took a detour to see Eunate Church modeled after the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, but for some reason it was closed. On we marched for 31 kilometers and now we rest in a quaint medieval village at a small albergue. We did have an opportunity to "speak" to several today. The first was four Spanish women as we drank a cup of cafe con leche, then we are pretty sure we were escorted to the edge of town by the mayor of Cizur Menor,  then Ibert, an older German, man walking alone, and an older Spanish man who was looking after a church in Obanos.  We may not know much of other languages but we manage to communicate a few good tidings along the way.  We ended our day with a fabulous Spanish dinner provided by the albergue in their neat basement lair. Our dinner mates were from Italy and Ireland.

Day 3 & 4 - Roncesvalles to Larrasoana 27.4 Kilometers to Cizur Menor 20.9 K

Monday morning the large albergue hospitaleros woke us at 6am with loud Gregorian chant music and this morning we were awakened very early by many cell phone alarms. We don't like to get up early as it is dark and we prefer to see where we are walking, so we lie in bed as the others leave. But our walks have led us to meet some great local shopkeepers.  Monday our day ended in Larrasoana where we went to a tiny market run by a wonderful character who was playing Classic American guitar music, which he loved.  We bought some tasty items and dined alfresco on his patio.  Great fun.  Tuesday our journey found us mid morning at a very cool cafe bar run by two hard working guys.  They served up wonderful coffee and conversation (yes, got to actually use my Spanish [Ed]). We now find ourselves resting after a much needed Peregrino meal.  

Day 2 - Hunto to Roncesvalles 19.5 Kilometers

After a wonderful French dinner last night we rested well.

Today we began our walk over the Pyrenees and back into Spain. It was a beautiful clear day and the views were stunning. After our daily chores; bath, wash clothes, and locate a place for dinner, we went to the small creek by our albergue and soaked our feet in the cold water. 

The next event just blows my mind....we saw Frank, Shirley his daughter, and her son Conner. These are folks we had walked a few days with on our first Camino in September 2012. We had not had any contact with them since then and we are now just amazed at seeing them now. They will be walking for another week so we will have fun visiting with them.

Tonight there is a special Pilgrims Service and then dinner time.

Day 1 - Here We Go (SJPP to Hunto)

(Ed) Our flight to Barcelona was pretty uneventful. Just long.  A train from the airport took us into downtown Barcelona.  We wandered around for a few hours, taking in the sights and old architecture as well as a few culinary treats and coffee.  Visited a beautiful old cathedral.  We still are amazed at how they could have built such elaborate and ornate buildings without the modern machinery of today.  We then got to the main train station where we took a long train to Pamplona.  Upon our arrival we were met by Isteven, our host for the night.  He drove us to his home where his wife, Barbara, prepared dinner for us and another peregrino couple from Valencia.  They spoke no English so we were immediately getting a good workout of our Spanish skills (we needed the practice).  Afterwards, we retired for a much needed night's sleep.  In the morning, we shared breakfast with a couple from Israel (how crazy).  They spoke fairly good English.  We enjoyed talking with them (they were quite interested in our exploits from two months ago in their country).  Following breakfast, we hopped in the car with our host who would be driving us to the beginning of the Camino Frances in St. Jean Pied de Port.  

(Joan) Our 45 minute drive in the Pyrenees was twisty and I was glad to get out of the car. First thing to do...throw up, which helped me feel a bit better. We then went to the Pilgrims office for our first sellos (stamp) on our credencial. We walked around St Jean and had an espresso at a sweet bakery and I was beginning to feel better. We did a little shopping as we needed a knife and some picnic lunch for the day and a few extra provisions. We were soon on our way for our short 6 kilometer walk in a light rain. Our decision to walk short today was because of our long travels to get here, tomorrow we will start longer days. Tonight we will enjoy a French dinner at our hosts inn.

A New Beginning

And we are off....to a far away place to journey into a time of adventure, fellowship, reflection, hunger, bed bugs, sun, rain, blistered feet, and so much more. We hope to look forward to and be open to each joy, challenge, inconvenience, sunrise, misunderstanding, etc as a gift from GOD; something HE will use to guide and teach us. These are just some of the things we will experience and we know not to go with any expectations of what will happen along the Way. 

The blog entries might to raw, funny, revealing, and real, so to those that read them prepare yourselves to be open, but please don’t judge us or think we are in a poor way. Regardless of our circumstances , we will have much joy, and even through what may seems harsh, we will learn and grow from..as we always do. We will post when we can as we won’t always have internet.

Soon we will be on an overnight  flight to Barcelona and then make our way by train to Pamplona where we will be picked up by Istvan and taken to his home for dinner and a bed for the night. The following morning he will drive us to St. Jean Pied de Port, France where we will beginning walking to Santiago de Compostela. 

Buen Camino, Joan

The Time is Near

On August 14, we will be boarding a plane to Barcelona to once again begin a journey on the Camino De Santiago.  On our previous walk, we were not exactly sure what we were getting into.  We never expected the trip to have such an impact on our lives.  So this time we will begin our trip at the beginning of the Camino Frances in St. Jean Pied de Port.  Our experiences from last time have shaped a different attitude in us that will change slightly the way we approach traversing the trail.  We hope to have laid aside our anxiety over where we might stay, what we might eat or whether we are "on time" or not.  We cannot expect for there to be no rain over the course of this six-week (approx) walk (we had no rain last time).  We are going to adopt the adage that Eric frequently uttered on our hike through Israel:  "The trail will provide!"  We have also pared down our packs and are traveling with fewer and smaller items.  We have concerns over whether the footwear we have chosen will be adequate for the length of our walk but we know that we can get something new along the way should they fail.  We have also done a bit more preparation with our Espanol.  So our hearts, minds, bodies and backpacks are basically ready to go!

Why go again?  Why do some go on this pilgrimage over and over again?  Those questions have a myriad of answers. A simple lifestyle.  A peaceful, beautiful walk.  Meditative time.  A diverse community.  A sense of accomplishment.  For some, maybe it's an escape from the "real" world.  I could go on and on.  For me, I'm not sure I would have chosen to go back had Joan not felt a real desire to do the whole path.  So part of my motives are to simply be with her (her motives go beyond simply walking the whole path.  I know she will share those as this blog goes on).  But my hope is that I will be still, be aware and be open to maybe a new purpose or new enlightenment or new motive as we explore Spain.

Buen Camino, y'all.
Ed